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Today in many parts of the world, men wear what 

we call neckties. According to various sources, the 

forerunners of the modern necktie appeared in 

England and France in the latter part of the 16th 

century. Men wore a jacket called a doublet. For 

decoration they wore a ruff at the neck. In many 

cases the ruff, which could have a thickness of 

several inches, was a large platelike disk that 

encircled the neck. It was made of white cloth and 

was stiffened so that it would hold its shape.

Eventually, the ruff was replaced by what was called the 

falling collar. This was a white collar that covered the 

entire shoulder and fell down over the top of the arm. 

These collars were also called Vandykes. The Puritans, 

among others, wore these.

In the 17th century, a long inner coat called a waistcoat 

came to be worn under the usual long coat. The neck of 

the wearer was wrapped with a scarflike neckcloth, or 

cravat. This cloth was wrapped around the neck more 

than once. The loose ends hung down the shirtfront. 

Paintings from the latter part of the 17th century show 

that by then cravats were very popular.

Cravats were made of muslin, lawn, and even lace. The lace ones were 

expensive. James II of England is said to have paid 36 pounds and 10 

shillings for one for his coronation, quite a sum in that day. Some lace 

cravats were large. The effigy of Charles II in Westminster Abbey shows 

his to have been 6 inches [15 cm] wide and 34 inches [86 cm] long.

There were many types of knots used to tie the cravats. In some cases a 

ribbon of silk was placed over the cravat to hold it in position and was 

then tied in a large bow under the chin. This style of neckcloth was called 

a solitaire. The bow resembled a modern bow tie. It is said that there 

were at least a hundred ways to tie a cravat. Beau Brummell, an 

Englishman who influenced men’s clothing styles, is said to have spent a 

whole morning tying one cravat to get it just right.

By the 1860’s, the cravat with long ends began to resemble the modern 

version of neck wear and to be called the necktie. It was also called a four-

in-hand. This name came from the knot used by drivers of four-horse 

teams. Shirts with collars had come into style. The necktie was knotted 

under the chin, and its long ends hung down the shirtfront. That is when 

the modern necktie appeared. Another type of necktie, the bow tie, came 

to be popular during the 1890’s.

Today the necktie is considered by many to be an important part of a 

wearer’s appearance. Some people may even form an opinion about a 

stranger based on the type of necktie he wears. Hence, it is wise to wear 

neckties that are clean and that have patterns or colors that harmonize 

with your shirt, pants, and jacket.

The knot selected should be tied neatly. Perhaps the most 

popular knot is the four-in-hand. It is neat and unpretentious and 

is widely accepted for dress occasions. Another popular knot is 

the Windsor knot, which is somewhat larger. A dimple is usually 

made in the tie just below the knot.

Many men feel uncomfortable wearing a necktie. They dislike the 

pressure on their throat. Yet, some who have experienced this 

problem have discovered that the discomfort has more to do with 

the size of the shirt. If this is your problem, make sure that your 

shirt collar is not too small. When it is the proper size, you may 

not even notice that you are wearing a tie.

In many lands the necktie is considered an 

essential part of business or formal dress. 

Yes, a piece of cloth around a man’s neck 

can add dignity and make him look 

respectable.

How to tie a four-in-hand knot:

1 Begin with the tie’s wide end approximately one foot [30 cm] below the narrow end, and cross it 

over the narrow end, bringing it back underneath.

2 Cross the wide end over again, and bring it up through the loop.

3 Holding the front of the knot loosely with the index finger, pull the wide end through the loop in 

front.

4 Tighten the knot slowly, holding the narrow end and sliding the knot to the collar.

Necktie styles from the 17th century to the present

From the book Shirt and Tie

by Michael Solomon