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WHEN was the last time you bought a pair of shoes? How did 

they fit you? Were they comfortable? How long did it take you 

to choose them? How helpful was the shop assistant or fitter? 

Did you buy them for style rather than comfort? How do they 

feel now that you have worn them a while? Do they pinch you 

anywhere?

Buying shoes is not as simple as it sounds. And getting the right 

size is almost like stepping into a labyrinth. 

Why is that?

Getting the Right Fit

First of all, which is your larger foot—right or left? 

You think they are both the same? Think again! 

Another factor to take into account is that each foot 

has four phases of fit: static fit, weight-bearing fit, 

functional fit, and thermal fit. What are the 

differences?

Regarding static fit, the book Professional Shoe 

Fitting says: “This is the fit of the shoe with the foot 

at rest (the customer seated).” 

As the expression “weight-bearing fit” suggests, it is 

measured when the person is standing. This 

position changes the size and shape of the foot. 

The above-quoted reference states: “The foot at rest is 

essentially a loose bag of bones and gristle that suddenly 

‘solidifies’ on weightbearing, becoming a foot of different fit 

requirements.” But there are two more fits.

The functional fit is the fit under dynamic conditions—when 

walking, running, jumping, or doing other exercise. This “creates 

a foot of different combinations of size, shape and proportions.” 

The fourth fit is the thermal, which refers to the alterations that 

take place as a result of heat, humidity, and moisture. These can 

cause an increase of 5 percent in foot volume. Little wonder that it 

is a relief to take your shoes off at the end of the day, especially if 

you are wearing the wrong size! And often that is the case.

How should you measure your feet?

A popular tool in some countries for assessing size is 

the Brannock device. (See photo.) This can be used to 

obtain three basic measurements: the overall length of 

the foot, the distance from the heel to the ball joint, and 

the ball width. But, of course, each foot has its own 

shape and volume. For that obvious reason, we try 

shoes on before we buy them. Herein can lie a trap. 

Have you ever had the experience of trying on shoes 

that you really like, only to find that they pinch slightly? 

“The shoes will stretch,” says the salesman. You buy 

them and begin to regret it a few days or weeks after 

you start wearing them. And there is the beginning of 

your next corn, ingrown toenail, or bunion!

Are You Getting That Perfect Fit?

Is it possible to find a perfect fit? Professional Shoe 

Fitting gives the quick answer no. Why not? 

“Because of several insurmountable obstacles. . . . 

No person has two feet of exactly the same size, 

shape, proportions or functional character.” So if a 

shoe is perfect for your larger foot, it will not quite 

fit the bill for the other one. “This does not suggest 

that good fit isn’t achievable, but only that we 

should be more cautious about the term or idea of 

‘perfect’ fit.”

If you want to see where your feet are causing 

pressure in a shoe, take a look at some of your old, 

used shoes. Look inside the shoe at the lining. 

Where do you notice the most wear? Frequently, 

the evidence will point to the heel seat, behind the 

heel, and to the ball of the foot. What does this 

mean? It means that “certain sections of the shoe 

are not properly mated with the corresponding 

sections of the foot. Some sections are getting 

excessive wear while others are virtually 

untouched.”

Even the throat of the shoe is important for comfort. 

Have you noticed that shoes can have different throat-

line styles? With the bal style, the two upper quarters 

are pulled together at the lowest lace point. However, 

if you have fleshy feet, then the blucher style is more 

comfortable, since the sides remain separated at the 

lowest lace point. (See diagram). Why is this detail 

important? The same source says: “Many or most heel 

irritations from the shoe are often the direct result of a 

shoe being too tight at the throat, thus crowding the 

heel back against the counter.”

What About Women’s High-Heeled 

Shoes?

The female preference for high heels imposes 

different stresses on the body. High heels tend 

to alter body posture, often causing a forward 

tilt, which, in turn, demands more knee bend in 

order to keep the body straight. High heels also 

contract the calf muscles, which then become 

more prominent.

Thus, the heel is often the crucial part of a 

woman’s shoe and the key to her comfort or 

discomfort. Professional Shoe Fitting says that 

there are three prime reasons for the heels on 

shoes:

‘(1) “status,” such as adding to one’s height, 

(2) cosmetic purposes—an added design or 

style feature on the shoe, 

(3) enhanced appearance—such as women’s 

high heels giving more contour to the legs.’

Women should be particularly conscious of the heel 

pitch, which determines where the line of the body 

weight passes through the heel. If that line is at the rear 

or front edge of the heel, trouble could result. Why is 

that? Because it can lead to the heel buckling and 

causing a nasty fall.

From this brief discussion, it is evident that getting the 

right fit of shoes takes time and perhaps even extra 

expense, since a good shoe requires more time to 

produce. But your shoes can mean so much to your 

general comfort and even to your health. So take your 

time. Get proper measurements. Be patient. Do not be 

fooled by fashion or appearances.

Points to Watch When Choosing Shoes

  William A. Rossi and Ross Tennant offer the following 

suggestions in their book Professional Shoe Fitting.

  “The purpose of measuring the foot is not, as 

supposed, to determine the precise shoe size required.” 

Why is that? 

Because shoe sizes can be affected by many factors, 

such as heel height, style, patterns, materials used, and 

brand. This is especially true today when footwear is 

being manufactured in so many countries with varying 

standards.

When your foot is measured, pull the toe of the sock or stocking 

forward so that the toes are not bent, resulting in a false reading.

  How should you be measured—seated or standing?

 “To measure with the customer seated is the lazy way.” It results in a 

false reading. Therefore, stand up to have your feet measured. Yes, 

both feet. Do not assume that the left foot is the larger. Measure 

both!

  “Professional shoe fitting is a skill and service that is the 

exclusive territory of an elite corps of individuals associated 

with an equally elite legion of stores who understand and 

appreciate the importance of highly skilled shoe fitting.”

sole, vamp, throat

sock lining, heel breast

top lift, toe cap, outsole, 

welt,

vamp, throat line, tongue 

bar,

quarter, heel pad, heel

All shoe designs are based on these seven basic styles

Bibliography:

William A. Rossi and Ross Tennant

 Professional Shoe Fitting.